THE DAHLIA. 29 



Recently there has been reported from various sections a peculiar dwarfing or stunting of plants 

 from some unknown cause, probably from obsciire physiological disturbance or from weather 

 injury; and powdery mildew sometimes affects leaves and stems in late summer. This last trouble 

 yields readily to spray treatment. 



Insects and some other low forms of animal life are far more troublesome, but ordinarily not 

 serious menaces to Dahlia culture. 



In moist seasons and in localities where slugs have become common they are frequently 

 very annoying, as they may eat the bud or the tender sprout below ground, or scrape the outer 

 surface of the lower stem until it is practically girdled and the plant dies. They also occasionally 

 climb the stem and feed on the younger leaves. As they are most active at night and crawl into 

 holes or crevices in the ground or hide under stones or lumps of earth during the day it is 

 necessary either to hunt them after sundown with a light or to adopt preventive measures. In 

 capturing them a stick with a darning needle in the end is an effective weapon, from which 

 they may be dropped into a can partly filled with kerosene. They may be driven from the ground 

 about the plant by using a dilute solution of ammonium carbonate (0.75 per cent.) to wet the 

 earth over a small area, and then captured, and it is probable that lime sulphur solution would 

 act in the same way. They are very fond of bran, so handfuls of this may be used as traps to 

 collect from, or a poisoned bran bait might prove effective where it could be used safely. Should 

 slugs ever become numerous enough to threaten the foliage, spraying with arsenate of lead 

 would be desirable. A few lettuce plants among the Dahlias make attractive food for the slugs 

 and may prevent injury to the plants. Lime or dry ashes or napthalene scattered in a small circle 

 about the plant will keep slugs away^ but the first two lose much of their effectiveness when wet. 



The tarnished plant bug becomes a serious pest during dry, hot summers, when the succu- 

 lence of the buds and blossoms tempts them from other food plants. When conditions have been 

 right for the increase of these small gray-brown bugs (light green in early stages) they may 

 cause the blighting or deformation of almost every bud by piercing the flower stalk or the base 

 of the bud itself, and may spot and ruin the petals of the buds that do open. Little can be done 

 to control these pests as they are sucking insects, so not subject to poisoning and too alert and 

 lively in movements to make spraying with contact insecticides practicable. The only thing to 

 do is to protect every choice plant or blossom with close-mesh netting and to await the disappear- 

 ance of the insect, which usually accompanies the cool September nights. The red spider and 

 black and green aphids are sometimes troublesome, but can easily be controlled by spraying the 

 former with cold water merely, the latter with a weak nicotine or strong soap solution. 



Borers occasionally work in the stalks, but can usually be removed without harm to the 

 plant if the injury is noticed in time by splitting the stalk with a sharp knife and killing the 

 borer. 



The black aster bug attacks the flowers, devouring them if allowed full sway. They attack 

 the white and very light varieties first. We eliminate them very readily by using a bucket with a 

 few inches of kerosene. Slip the bucket under the flower quickly and quietly and the beetles will 

 drop right in. "Care must be taken to walk quietly, as they drop to the ground if disturbed in 

 any way. The striped and spotted cucumber beetles also attack the flowers, but not in such 

 numbers as to do great damage. As they slip down in the tubular end of the petal to escape, 

 just pull out petal and beetle together. 



Cut worms are very annoying sometimes, especially in low ground, or during a cold, wet 

 spring. Many remedies are suggested, but a careful daily watch will soon eliminate them. 

 When the Dahlia is cut off, take a stick and work around the plant and you will find the worm ; 

 kill it and be happy in the knowledge that shoots will come up from the lower eyes. Even 

 where plants are set the eyes at the bottom will come up after the plant has been cut off. 



Failures are bound to occur to the beginner, and oftentimes to initiated. Therefore do 

 not become discouraged if you do not at first grow flowers as large and fine as you see them 

 exhibited; but keep plugging away, with the knowledge that eventually you will grow them as 



