28 THE DAHLIA. 



Man37 people believe Dahlias should be watered every evening, and as soon as they are up 

 commence watering them daily unless it rains. This practice is very injurious, as it causes a 

 rapid but soft growth; and, as the soil is seldom stirred, the roots become so enfeebled for want 

 of air that they are unable to supply the needs of the plant; as a consequence, but few buds are 

 formed, and they generally blast before developing into flowers. 



In other cases, as the enthusiasm wears otT, watering is stopped, probably, right at the begin- 

 ning of a severe drouth, and the weak, pampered plants are fortunate to survive, much less bloom. 



If large, strong roots are planted and the soil is kept thoroughly stirred, there will be little 

 need of artificial watering until after the plants come out in full bloom. However, if it should 

 become hot and dry after your Dahlias come into bloom, it would, if convenient, be very bene- 

 ficial to give them a thorough watering once each week or ten days during the continuance of 

 the drouth. But care must be taken to stir the soil to the depth of one to tivo inches the next 

 day, carefully pulverizing it later, in order to seal those natural capillary tubes by which the 

 moisture is evaporated. 



The best rule to follow is nOb to allow your plants to suffer from want of moisture, nor 

 to water them except they need it, but to water them thoroughly when you do water them, and 

 not to allow excessive evaporation for want of frequent stirring o'" *he soil. 



One of the chief sources of complaint from the amateur grower, namely, large plants and 

 few or no blooms, can be avoided very easily. Generally this is caused by the soil being too 

 rich, causing the plants to make large growths, and unless the season is very favorable foi 

 Dahlias and the best attention given, there is a very scant supply of blooms. In many cases the 

 flov/ers open imperfectly, few flowers, under size and so forth. In our case, where the soil is very 

 rich, it is best to simply plow or spade up the soil and plant Dahlias without any fertilizer or 

 manure whatever. This will check the growth of the plants somewhat and cause them to bloom 

 earlier, and as long as the flowers are of good size, no other nourishment is needed. Of course, 

 after the flowers become smaller in size, it is well to give them a top dressing of some quick and 

 active fertilizer, especially bone meal. Nitrate of soda should be avoided on any soil where there 

 is a heavy growth of plant. 



The object sought in growing Dahlias — fine, large flowers, and lots of them — is best obtained 

 by feeding the flowers after the plant has developed rather than by feeding the plant before the 

 flower appears. 



All Dahlia blqssoms should be cut before they have quite reached their best, unless for 

 exhibition, and singles, which are quite shortlived, should be taken before they are fulh 

 unfolded, to insure satisfactory retention of petals. The pompon, show and fancy types, last 

 longest after cutting, although many of the decoratives are excellent in this regard and some of 

 the cactus and pjeony-flowered types. 



The singles are not good for continuous use in bouquets as the petals drop soon after 

 cutting, if fully opened flowers are chosen. 



The beauty and daintiness of these flowers render them admirable, however, for vase 

 decoration for a dinner or a reception ; and their freedom of bloom makes the frequent refilling 

 of the vases in home decoration very easy. Collarette Dahlias seem to withstand wilting and hold 

 their petals much better than the singles, although apparently differing from them so slio-hth'. 



Unfortunately too many of our handsomest cactus and paeony-flowered Dahlias are either 

 weak-stemmed, requiring wiring for vase or bouquet use, or are too soft in texture to "hold-up" 

 well after cutting. Breeders are now working, with success in sight in several cases, to over- 

 come these faults, so we may soon hope to hav many varieties as satisfactor)- in these respects 

 as they are in color and form. 



Pests. — Fortunately the Dahlia has few serious pests to contend with, though numerous 

 diseases and insects may at times cause annoyance. 



No diseases are discussed in any of the published works on the Dahlia, but the tubers 

 occasionaly rot in the field, though more frequently in storage, from the attack of fungi. 



