26 THE DAHLIA. 



and fertilizer do not come in contact with tlie roots. This done, cover the rows with plow, hoe 

 or any other convenient method. As soon as the shoots appear, remove all but the strongest one 

 and pinch that one off, thus forcing it to branch at the surface of the ground. By this method 

 the entire strength of the root and the soil is concentrated on the one shoot, causing it to grow 

 vigorously; while the pinching or cutting back of the shoot not only causes it to branch at the 

 surface and thus brace it against all storms without staking, but also removes all of those first 

 imperfect, short-stemmed flov/ers that appear on some varieties. (See cut, page 25, showing 

 how the plants branch, also illustration of field of Dahlias, page 6, grown under this system 

 without staking.) 



I am, I think, the first to use and advocate this method of cultivation, and, by its practice, 

 have grown many thousands of Dahlia blooms on stems from eighteen inches to two feet long ; 

 selling them to florists, by the thousands, for four times the ruling price of carnations and higher 

 than that asked for roses. 



Another method of growing on single branched stems is fully described under the chapter 

 of disbudding, and the result shown in the plant of John Wanamaker on page 35. 



During its early stage of development the Dahlia grows very rapidly, and should be kept 

 thoroughly cultivated; that is, the rows should be kept scrupulously clean by frequent hoeings, 

 and the space between the rows frequently and deeply stirred. Among the many benefits thus 

 derived is to make the plant root deeply, but it must be remembered that while deep cultivation is 

 beneficial during its early stage of development, it is almost fatal to the production of flowers 

 if practiced after the plants come into bloom. Therefore, Vifhen your plants commence to bloom, 

 cease deep cultivation and stir the soil to the depth of one or two inches only, hut stir it often, 

 and never allow the surface to become hard and baked. This will not only prevent excessive 

 evaporation of moisture and keep the under soil ccol and moist, but will also prevent the destruc- 

 tion of immense quantities of feeding roots. ^ 



The nearer the directions for preparing the soil and planting the roots are followed, the 

 longer the plants will continue to gro«' and bloom freely, for the roots push out in every 

 direction in search of nourishment and moisture, thus forming a complete network of strong, 

 vigorous feeding roots. This immense system of roots not only more than supply the needs of 

 the plant, but enables it to withstand extreme droughts, owing to the large amount of moisture 

 they hold in reserve. 



As long as the roots supply more nourishment than is needed to support the plant, both 

 the plant and the flowers increase in size and beauty; but as the supply gradually becomes 

 exhausted, the plants cease growing and the flowers become much smaller. This condition is 

 what is generally called "bloomed out," but what is really "starved out," and can easily be 

 prevented if the proper attention is given to the plants. As soon as the flowers commence to 

 grow smaller, broadcast around each plant a small handful of pure bone meal and nitrate of 

 soda, in proportion six parts bone to one part soda, and carefully work it into the soil. 



This will be carried down where the roots can reach it by the first rain, and will restore 

 full vigor to the plants and size to the flowers. In the absence of above mixture, any good 

 fertilizer rich in ammonia and phosphoric acid will give excellent results. This top dressing, and 

 a thorough stirring of the soil from time to time as already advised, will insure an abundance of 

 beautiful flowers until the plants are killed down by severe frosts. 



As soon as the plants are killed by frost, lift the roots, and, after removing all the soil from 

 them possible, allow them to dry in the air for a few hours, when they should be stored in the 

 cellar or some other cool place secure from frost. If your cellar is very dry or is not frost proof 

 put the roots in a barrel or box and cover completely with dry sand or some other suitable and 

 convenient material, such as saw dust or tan bark, to pre^-ent freezing or loss of vitality by 

 drying and shriveling. Roots handled in this way will keep safely over winter, and will be in 

 excellent condition for ]Tanting- the following spring. 



Staking. — It has always been thought necessary- to tie Dahlias up to stakes to prevent them 



