THE DAHLIA. 



23 



with manure. Any good fertilizer, rich in ammonia and phosphoric acid with a liberal amount 

 of potash, will answer at the time of planting, but as a top dressing later, I have found nothing 

 that would equal pure bone meal and nitrate of soda in proportion — six parts bone and one part 

 soda. 



Of equal or greater importance is the handling of very rich soils, for if the soil is too rich, 

 there will be too heavy a plant growth and consequent falling off in the quantity and quality of 

 blooms. I cannot advise the amateur too strongly to withhold using any fertihzer whatever in 

 planting if his soil is already very rich. Especially is this the case on heavy soil until the plants 

 commence to bloom. This, however, is for the ordinary way of growing Dahlias. 



If you disbud your plants as described in another chapter, it will make no difference how 

 rich you make your soil. In fact it takes very rich soil to produce those 10- to 12-inch exhibition 

 blooms. 



A few years ago a friend wrote me that he wanted Dahlia blooms; for four years he had 

 bushes only. In reply to my letter he sent a diagram of his place, located on the south side of a 

 large grove. I suggested he dig a trench along his line and give his Dahlia bed a cheesecloth 

 cover. He now takes first prizes. There is no place you cannot grow Dahlias if you will overcome 

 the local obstacle. 



If you want Dahlias under a maple tree you might have to build a concrete floor and sides 

 for the bed, but with ample drainage you can grow fine Dahlias, particularly those tender varie- 

 ties, like Cockatoo, that is liable to burn in the sun. 



BALL DAHLIA, DOROTHY PEACOCK 



