88 ACROSS MONGOLIAN PLAINS 



valsM) and wild asses {Eqwm hemiorms) could be 

 found. 



Sain Noin, one of the four Mongolian kings, had died 

 only a short time earlier under suspicious circumstances, 

 and his widow had just visited tlje capital. Monsieur 

 Orlow, the Russian Diplomatic Agent, had written her 

 regarding our prospective visit, and through him she 

 had extended to us a cordial invitation. 



Our start from Urga was on a particularly beautiful 

 day, even for Mongolia. The golden roof of the great 

 white temple on the hill blazed with light, and the un- 

 dulating crest of the Sacred Mountain seemed so near 

 that we imagined we could see the deer and boar in its 

 parklike openings. Our way led across the valley and 

 over the Tola River just below the palace of the Liv- 

 ing God. We climbed a long hill and emerged on a slop- 

 ing plain where marmots were bobbing in and out of 

 their burrows like toy animals manipulated by a string. 

 Two great flocks of demoiselle cranes were daintily 

 catching grasshoppers not a hundred yards away. We 

 wanted both the cranes for dinner and the marmots for 

 specimens, but we dared not shoot. Although not ac- 

 tually upon sacred soil we were in close proximity to 

 the Bogdo-ol and a rifle shot might have brought a 

 horde of fanatical priests upon our heads. It is best to 

 take no chances with religious superstitions, for the 

 lamas do not wait to argue when they are once aroused. 



The first day began most beautifully, but it ended 

 badly as all first days are apt to do. We met our 

 "Waterloo" on a steep hill shortly after tifiin, for two 



