90 Animal Husbandry 
unless tasteless and odorless, as the horse is likely to refuse the food 
when it is important that he should have it. Natural foods, such 
as fresh grass, roots, bran mash, and milk, are to be preferred to 
prepared foods, though the use of patent stock foods may prove 
beneficial in certain minor ailments, when a tonic is valuable. The 
feed boxes should be kept clean, and if any food is left, it should 
be removed and not left until the next meal. 
In certain ailments, it is necessary to protect the horse against 
the cold’ or from drafts. This can be done by the use of blankets. 
To protect the limbs, bandages may be applied. The bandage 
should be made from strips of woolen cloth about three inches wide 
and five to eight feet long. Make it into a neat roll, then apply 
by beginning at the lower or smaller part of the limb and wind up- 
wards. 
TRAINING THE COLT 
The usefulness of the horse will depend much on his cour- 
age and fearlessness, and it is to promote these that the colt 
should become familiar with man at as early an age as possible. 
A colt should never be frightened. Too many persons thought- 
lessly try to make the young colt show off by doing something to 
startle it, by running at it, throwing sticks, “‘ shooing ” it, and the 
‘like. This should never be done if a reliable animal is to be de- 
veloped. 
158. Handling the colt. — The foal should be taught very early 
the uses of the halter ; first to lead, then to drive. But even before 
haltering the youngster may be taught to ‘stand over,” to have 
his foot raised, to back, and the like. In handling the colt be 
careful about the ears, the back of the fore legs, and the flanks, as 
these are often very sensitive. Catch the colt by putting one hand 
under the neck and the other under the hams or around the but- 
tocks (Fig. 39). Never catch a colt around the neck only — if 
this is done, the colt will go backwards and perhaps fall — but 
instead catch him around both ends, as described; then if he 
