160 WANDERINGS OF A 



the Jhelum Eiver lay in a north-eastern direction, and we had 

 to descend several thousand feet, which took nearly two days 

 to accomplish, owing to the state of the weather and footpaths. 

 We were struck with the change of temperature on arrival at 

 the banks of the river, where at six p.m. the thermometer stood 

 at 70° Fahrenheit in the shade, and mosquitoes were trouble- 

 some. The valley of the Jhelum at the ford presented a very 

 wild and imposing appearance. The great river, swollen by 

 the late rains, rolled in a mighty flood down an enormous 

 ravine, the sides of which rose up to several thousand feet, 

 forming long " horsebacks," and clothed with grass or patches 

 of oak and forest trees, whilst here and there a little flat-roofed 

 native house, Hidden among the vegetation, with its terraced 

 fields, indicated the presence of man. In twenty-four hours 

 we had descended from an arctic temperature to an almost 

 tropical, and through what delightful scenery! None but 

 those who have wandered over mountains like the Himalayas 

 can form an idea of the beauty and magnificence of the region 

 we are now considering. To the naturalist the attractions 

 gather so fast that he can barely make himself acquainted with 

 the most familiar objects. I noticed the wandering pie, the 

 chimney swallow, and Alpine swift ; two species of a beauti- 

 ful hyacinth, blue and white, and a tiger Kly, were in flower. 

 The long-leaved pine, the rough and smooth-leaved oak 

 and wild barberry, were the common trees and shrubs. 

 We were escorted for the greater part of the day's march 

 by a Sepoy from the last halting-place. He had been in 

 Eungeet Singh's army, and fought against the English in 

 the Sutluj campaign. He spoke highly of the bravery 

 of the Europeans, but laughed at the native troops, un- 

 less backed up by the white men. The river was run- 

 ning strong and rapid, but by means of powerful oars in 



