162 WANDERINGS OF A 



Dugshai. This valuable addition' to the ornithology of the 

 Himalayas has been since figured by Mr. Gould in his 

 magnificent work on the Birds of Asia. 



A tulip, with white petals tinged with rose-colour, is very 

 common all over the ranges at this season, and in damp 

 situations the slate-coloured primrose, whilst ivy clung fast 

 to the old pine-trees, of which more than three species were 

 observed. On gaining the top of a ridge, we espied the little 

 fort of Chacar on another opposite, and after a very toilsome 

 descent across a broad valley, and a rough clamber up-hill, 

 we got to the little stronghold at dusk, to find the com- 

 mandant, a gray-bearded Sikh, waiting our arrival' in the 

 verandah of his house, and, as usual, surrounded by his 

 rainions accoutred with sword and shield. 



After the usual Oriental preliminary forms of recognition, 

 we were told that the Maharajah's order was, that every Euro- 

 pean visiting his country was to be considered his guest, and 

 on no account to be allowed to pay for provisions. We soon 

 found, however, that this munificence was at the expense of 

 the poor villagers, for our next-door neighbour exclaimed from 

 his roof-top that he had been ordered to supply us with fowls ; 

 another, that eggs had been demanded from him ; and a third 

 was to furnish us with wood. In vain we protested and 

 offered to pay for everything ; but the Sikh, soldier who 

 catered for us would not hear of such an arrangement ; how- 

 ever, on our departure, he was not above receiving any amount 

 of " backshesh " on his own account. What could not be 

 done in justice and in public, we accomplished unknown to 

 these myrmidons, so that the natives were no losers by our 

 presence. 



The tyranny of the late Goulab Singh was then beyond 

 belief ; proofs of which were seen everjnvhere in the deserted 



