182 -WANDERINGS OF A 



flocks of snow-pheasants get very much excited on the ap- 

 proach of the lammergeyer, or any other large rapacious bird, 

 and run from one part of the mountain to another, evidently 

 in great fear. Doubtless the golden and imperial eagles often 

 pounce on the young, but they do not seem to attack the 

 adult. The plumage of the snow-pheasants differs consider- 

 ably in summer and winter, and there is likewise some in- 

 dividual disproportion as to size, both of which are worthy of 

 attention. An adult male is about 29 inches in length, and 

 the breadth from tip to tip of wings about 40 inches ; 

 weight 8J to 7J lbs. The legs are armed with short blunt 

 spurs. 



It is particularly refreshing, after a few hours spent 

 among the cold and snow of the higher regions, to descend to 

 the region of verdure, among the fragrant wild thyme which 

 grows abundantly on these mountains, along with the iris, 

 crocus, and tiger-lily. After a day's hard work on the moun- 

 tain-side, searching for Upice, we were returning homewards 

 through a little belt of birch, when I came on a musk-deer, 

 and shot the little creature as it stood gazing in astonishment 

 at my sudden appearance. The female is of little value, 

 except for its skin, as the flesh is dry and tasteless. During 

 our stay in the little valley of Trahal, we had a visit from 

 Mirza Shah, ex-rajah of Iscardo, one of Goulab Singh's state 

 prisoners : he had been exiled for twelve years, and was living 

 in destitution in a small viQage close by. The poor fellow 

 seemed completely borne down by sorrow, although only 

 thirty years of age. He was tall, slender, and handsome, and 

 wore a large white turban and blue mantle. Through an in- 

 terpreter he informed us of the unjust way in which his 

 country was taken from him by Goulab Singh, but his dull 

 eye seemed - to brighten up when he recounted the friendly 



