244 WANDERINGS OF A 



bank of the Jhelum, where we embarked in boats and dropt 

 slowly down the river. The day was fine, and the scenery of 

 the loveliest description : the old rustic bridges at Kannibal 

 and Pantur; the banks fringed with mulberry-trees, now 

 loaded with their delicious fruit ; the calm, still after- 

 noon ; the varying scene at every turn of the river, were all 

 beautiful. We had a view of the old city on the way, 

 but enjoyed a more favourable opportunity of examining its 

 ruins during my subsequent visit to the valley. Although 

 what remains is almost buried under a great mass of alluvium, 

 portions of a temple and entrance-gate were traceable, besides 

 fragments of waUs laid bare by excavators. The great thick- 

 ness of soil on the top of the city is scarcely to be accounted 

 for by supposing it to be the accumulations of roof-tops. 

 'No doubt the severe earthquakes to which the valley has been 

 subjected, even in historical times, have produced changes of 

 level in many parts, as is attested by these monuments. 



By 9 A.M. on the 8th of June our little craft glided quietly 

 by the shady bank of the city gardens. From the various 

 wooden, houses peeped English faces, and when we jumped 

 out opposite the Hurri-Sing-Ka-Bagh we could not help ob- 

 serving the great change which two months had produced. The 

 Maharajah's agent informed us that forty Englishmen had 

 arrived in Serinuggur, the greater number for sporting pur- 

 poses. 



Every day Goulab Singh had his troops drilled on a flat 

 near the palace. The band was composed of divers uncouth- 

 sounding horns and trumpets, and he would attempt on each 

 occasion " God save the Queen," and what afterwards I found 

 out was intended for "Bonaparte's March." The scene was 

 simply ludicrous, but the wily prince fancied he was performing 

 a great political duty before the English officers. I asked in vain 



