246 WANDERINGS OF A 



of nature, manifested in the mountains, rivers, and forest- 

 glades, has himself travelled over the torrid zone, and seen 

 the luxuriance and diversity of vegetation, not only on the 

 cultivated sea-coasts, but on the declivities of the snow- 

 covered Andes, the Himalaya or the Nilgherry mountains 

 of Mysore, or in the primitive forests and the network of 

 rivers lying between the Orinoco and the Amazon, can alone 

 feel what an inexhaustible treasure remains stiU unopened 

 by the landscape-painter between the tropics in both con- 

 tinents" {Cosmos). 



We could scarcely have chosen a better morning for our 

 excursion. The sun was gilding the snow-covered peaks of 

 the northern Pinjal as we commenced the ascent, and by the 

 time we had gained the temple, his rays, in one flood of golden 

 light, had illuminated half the valley, leaving the southern 

 portion "and the slopes of the Peer Pinjal yet intact. Seldom 

 does he shine on more varied and beautiful scenery, for in all 

 my wanderings before and since I have never witnessed its 

 equal There lay the capital at our feet,- half-hidden among 

 clusters of poplars, chunars, and forest trees — ^the Dul lake, 

 washing the western base of the Tukt-i-Salaman, stretched 

 westward with all its ever-changing forms. On the placid 

 waters of the lake numerous skiffs shot either rapidly along, 

 or threaded their way through a labyrinth of weeds, diversified 

 by the countless floating gardens, and the Isle of Chunars, 

 with its noble plane-trees. The shalimar and pleasure-grounds 

 of the Delhi emperors, now faded, and fast passing into the 

 wild jungle around them, covered portions of the northern 

 bank of the lake. Huri Purbet, like a fortress which had 

 undergone a siege, its walls crumbling into decay, stood on 

 the side of a spur overlooking a scene which for loveliness 

 and grandeur has scarcely an equal. So perfect seemed both 



