266 • WANDEKINGS OF A 



Lamastry of Lameru, which is situated on the top of a ridge : 

 the houses are built close together on. points of the rocks. 

 The immediate scenery around was really picturesque and 

 fine, chiefly from the cultivated valley and rows of willows 

 by the banks of its stream. The long dykes (mawi), so plen- 

 tiful in this country, were as usual covered with slate slabs, 

 bearing the eternal words " Om mani Padmi om,"* cut out 

 upon each. One of the priests or gelums came out to meet 

 us, bringing dried apricots, walnuts, and a mug of chung ; 

 his joUy red nose, short-cut hair, and general en Ion point, 

 might have fitted well for " a friar of orders gray." He wore 

 the usual red loose robe, adorned with amulets and strings of 

 beads ; cloth boots of divers colours, and a praying-box in 

 his hand, which he kept revolving like a child's rattle, now 

 stopping to listen to our interpreter's request regarding pro- 

 visions, then (as if to make up for lost time), setting to work 

 to grind his prayers with redoubled energy. The head-dress 

 of the natives consists of a long cap of black cloth, which falls 

 negligently and not ungracefully on one side. Pig-tails are 

 worn by both sexes ; that of the women consists of divers 

 plaits, ornamented with blue and green pebbles, resembling 

 turquoise — none, however, appeared of any value. The chung, 

 or ale, is evidently much used, and the only intoxicating 

 liquor known to the Ladakhees. The bloated looks, watery 

 eyes, and red noses of many of the better classes sufficiently 

 testify to their partiality for this " good cheer," which at best 

 is not equal to sour cider. The mode of making it is by boil- 

 ing barley, adding dough, and then allowing the whole to 

 stand imtil fermentation has taken place. As usual with 

 passers-by, we paid a visit to the lamastry during the after- 



* " Hail to him of the lotus and jewel." — See Hooker's Himalayan 

 Jowrnal. 



