NATURALIST IN INDIA. 269 



gardens at Nimo are stocked with apples and apricots. After 

 leaving Nimo the footpath winds through a sandy ravine near 

 the Indus, now much reduced in size and velocity as compared 

 with its course below Kalatse. In the shallow parts natives 

 were catching Himalayan trout, some of which were above 

 half-a-pound in weight. The common tern (S. hirundo) was 

 seen hovering over the river. On emerging from the valley 

 of the Indus an extensive plain is seen stretching north and 

 south, surrounded by great snowy mountains. At the north- 

 ern extremity stands Leh, the capital It is situated upon a 

 rising ground, at an elevation of 11,000 feet above the level 

 of the sea. Like the generality of the fortress-looking towns 

 and villages in Ladakh, it has an imposing appearance from a 

 distance. The old palace, fort, and ruined wall on the face of 

 a ridge are striking enough, but, in common with every one 

 of Goulab Singh's conquests, tyranny and neglect have sadly 

 changed Ladakh since the time of its legitimate rulers. A 

 broad street, with a few wretched shops and wares, are all 

 worth noticing. One is struck with the vast numbers of 

 women hanging about the streets, some caiTying heavy loads, 

 others apparently waiting for employment. The men, it is 

 said, are chiefly employed in the sulphur and borax mines, so 

 that the greater part of the cultivation and manual labour in 

 and about Leh is performed entirely by women. At stated 

 times caravans from Yarkund arrive with brick-tea, shawl- 

 wool, China silks, ponies, etc., which are exchanged for grain, 

 English calicoes, and the like ; so that Leh is but a market- 

 place for Cashmere and Yarkund merchants. The Yarkund 

 pony is a hardy little animal, and fetches a high price, being 

 in request for the hiU-stations in the north-western provinces 

 of India. The variety called the Tangun piebald is common. 

 They are shy and timid at first, and evince a strange dislike to 



