290 WANDERINGS OF A 



kindly put us into one of their temples, where we spent that 

 and the following day surrounded by images and idols.- It 

 was a frequent subject of remark, how much our friends at 

 home would wonder to see us all seated on the floor sur- 

 rounded by these grim-looking figures, and not much less 

 grotesque-looking Tartars crowding around the door to watch 

 us at dinner. I have a vivid and pleasant recollection of that 

 day, and of the wild and unbounded delight of two Irishmen 

 and two Scotchmen meeting by chance in such an out-of-the- 

 way place, aU brimful of news and adventures. 



The feeling of oppression and lassitude, which had affected 

 all of us during our travels in Eupshoo, left us as soon as 

 we recrossed the pass and got to Ghia. It seemed as if 

 a heavy load had been removed from off our bodies. To me 

 the sensation had been unusually troublesome for the last 

 few days, in consequence of suffering from over-fatigue in 

 attempting to ascend the mountains in quest of birds. 



It is dangerous to penetrate the defiles of Ladakh imme- 

 diately before or during a fall of rain, as masses of rock get 

 loosened, and roll down the mountain-sides into the valleys. 

 During our march to Opshee we were kept in constant dread 

 of falling rocks, the noises of which sounded like thunder 

 through the narrow gorges. It was, therefore, a great relief 

 to get clear of the pass and once more debouch on the open. 

 Being desirous of witnessing one of the fairs which annually 

 take place at Leh, we delayed a day or two, waiting for the 

 caravan expected from Yarkund, but to no purpose, and as the 

 fair could not commence until the Tartar merchants arrived, 

 we took our departure for Cashmere. Continuing by the 

 former route as far as Kargil, we then changed the direction 

 and proceeded by another road which leads across the Suru 

 glacier into the valley of Wurdwun. Accordingly, on the 



