:;:::::::i? camping in a barranca ae:::::::: 



apex of black pines and lava is warmed by a dull 

 glow, which fitfully rises and falls — the very \nihe of 

 Mother Earth. Here is the mystery of the cosmos; 

 our first glimpse of earth's primeval fires which have 

 glowed since the first cell came into existence — and 

 who knows how many ages before ? One may read 

 of strange customs, and at once see them clearly in his 

 mind's eye ; of grand mountains, and imagine their 

 appearance and impressiveness ; but of an active vol- 

 cano — never ! The awe, the deej) reverence it arouses 

 is part of one's deepest nature, beyond words or expres- 

 sion. It is late that night — and many other nights — 

 before SeTiorlta and I interru^it our revery. 



The Mexican guide was tardy next morning, — two 

 hours by our watches, — but according to his notion 

 only a little, " ahorita," — a very little, — behind 

 time. A silver peso bought a large assortment of the 

 most primitive earthen olhis, jars and saucers, and 

 several plaited straw mats, all of which we found in- 

 valuable later on. When these were tied on above the 

 packs, we said good-bye to our hostesses ; and our little 

 cavalcade clattered off through the deserted streets, 

 past the station, the railroad terminus, and the little 

 wayside shrine which always marks the completion of 

 any considerable undertaking in this country. 



For mile after mile we rode along a level, dusty trail, 

 zigzagging through parched mesquite bushes, from 

 which a short gallop to one side frightened out Curve- 



*<^- 129 > 



