CHAPTER V 



TO LAKE KIVU AND THE VOLCANIC REGION 



" The song of the ships is far to hear, the hum of the world is dead, 

 A nd lotus-life in a drowsy year our benison instead ; 

 Why should we push the world along, live in a whirl of flame. 

 When the Pace of the Ox is steady and strong and the end is just the same ?" 



BOTH Msinga and Lieutenant Defawe had been so kind to 

 us that it was with genuine regret that our farewells 

 were said on the morning of our departure from Niansa. 

 We were, moreover, given a great send-off by the Sultan 

 himself and the majority of his male relatives. Two of 

 his own body-guard, tmder his special instructions, were 

 attached to our " safari " as guides and escort. 



Previously we had given Msinga as good a present as 

 our means would allow, this being returned on his part by 

 a gift of three pieces of fine Batwa pottery which were 

 packed away with our other mementoes. Thus ended a 

 memorable occasion, and we " hit the track " for pastures 

 new. 



For several years it had been my dearest wish to visit 

 Lake Kivu and the wonderful volcanoes to the north, but 

 up till now no opportunity had presented itself. So it was 

 with the keenest pleasure that I set forth to cover the four 

 days' journey to Rubengera on the eastern littoral of the 

 lake, and at this time a small Belgian outpost situated about 

 half way down its length. The country between Niansa 

 and the summits of the Kivu watershed is drained by a 

 swift river of good size named the Njawarongo, another 

 affluent of the Kagera. The pasture of this valley is the 



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