42 MALDONADO. [cmar. IIt. 
of Las Minas; a superior tradesman closely cross-questioned me 
about so singular a practice; and likewise why on board we 
wore our beards; for he had heard from my guide that we did 
so. He eyed me with much suspicion; perhaps he had heard of 
ablutions in the Mahomedan religion, and knowing me to be a 
heretick, probably he came to the conclusion that all hereticks 
were Turks. It is the general custom in this country to ask for 
a night’s lodging at the first convenient house. The astonish- 
ment at the compass, and my other feats in jugglery, was to a’ 
certain degree advantageous, as with that, and the long stories 
my guides told of my breaking stones, knowing venomous from 
harmless snakes, collecting insects, &c., I repaid them for their 
‘hospitality. I am writing as if I had been among the inhabit- 
ants of central Africa: Banda Oriental would not be flattered 
by the comparison ; but such were my feelings at the time. 
The next day we rode to the village of Las Minas. The 
country was rather more hilly, but otherwise continued the same ; 
an inhabitant of the Pampas no doubt would have considered it 
as truly Alpine. The country is so thinly inhabited, that 
during the whole day we scarcely met asingle person. ‘Las Minas 
is much smaller even than Maldonado. It is seated on a little 
plain, and is surrounded by low rocky mountains. It is of the 
usual symmetrical form; and with its whitewashed church 
standing in the centre, had rather a pretty appearance. The 
outskirting houses rose out of the plain like isolated beings, 
without the accompaniment of gardens or courtyards. This is 
generally the case in the country, and all the houses have, in 
consequence, an uncomfortable aspect. At night we stopped at 
a pulperia, or drinking-shop. During the evening a great num- 
ber of Gauchos came in to drink spirits and smoke cigars: their 
appearance is very striking; they are generally tall and hand- 
some, but with a proud and dissolute expression of countenance. 
They frequently wear their mousteches, and long black hair 
curling down their backs. With their brightly-coloured gar- 
ments, great spurs clanking about their heels, and knives stuck 
as daggers (and often so used) at their waists, they look a very 
different race of men from what might be expected from their 
name of Gauchos, or simple countrymen. Their politeness is 
excessive; they never drink their spirits without expecting you 
