156 BANDA ORIENTAL. [ CHAP. VIIT. 
By the middle of the day, on the 28th, we arrived at Monte 
Video, having been two days and a half on the road. ‘The 
country for the whole way was of a very uniform character, 
some parts being rather more rocky and hilly than near 
the Plata. Not far from Monte Video we passed through 
the village of Las Pietras, so named from some large rounded 
masses of syenite. Its appearance was rather pretty. In this 
country a few fig-trees round a group of houses, and a site ele- 
vated a hundred feet above the general level, ought always to be 
called picturesque. 
During the last six months I have had an opportunity of seeing 
a little of the character of the inhabitants of these provinces. 
The Gauchos, or countrymen, are very superior to those who 
reside in the towns. The Gaucho is invariably most obliging, 
polite, and hospitable: I did not meet with even one instance of 
rudeness or inhospitality. He is modest, both respecting himself 
and country, but at the same time a spirited, bold fellow. On 
the other hana, many robberies are committed, and there is much 
bloodshed: the habit of constantly wearing the knife is the chief 
cause of the latter. It is lamentable to hear how many lives are 
lost in trifling quarrels. In fighting, each party tries to mark 
the face of his adversary by slashing his nose or eyes ; as is often 
attested by deep and horrid-looking scars. Robberies are a 
natural consequence of universal gambling, much drinking, and 
extreme indolence. At Mercedes I asked two men why they 
did not work. One gravely said the days were too long; the 
other that he was too poor. The number of horses and the pro- 
fusion of food are the destruction of all industry. Moreover, 
there are so many feast-days; and again, nothing can succeed 
without it be begun when the moon is on the increase; so that 
half the month is lost from these two causes, ‘ 
Police and justice are quite inefficient. Ifa man who is poor 
commits murder and is taken, he will be imprisoned, and perhaps 
even shot ; but if he is rich and has friends, he may rely on it no 
very severe consequence will ensue. It is curious that the most 
respectable inhabitants of the country invariably assist a murderer 
to escape: they seem to think that the individual sins against the 
xovernment, and not against the people. A traveller has no pro- 
