1834.] BAY OF VALPARAISO. 253 
roofs, the view reminded me of St. Cruz in Teneriffe. In a 
north-easterly direction there are some fine glimpses of the 
Andes: but these mountains appear much grander when viewed 
from the neighbouring hills; the great distance at which they 
are situated, can then more readily be perceived. ‘The volcano 
of Aconcagua is particularly magnificent. This huge and irre- 
gularly conical mass has an elevation greater than that of Chim- 
borazo ; for, from measurements made by the officers in the 
Beagle, its height is no less than, 23,000 feet. The Cordillera, 
however, viewed from this point, owe the greater part of their 
beauty to the atmosphere through which they are seen. When 
the sun was setting in the Pacific, it was admirable to watch 
how clearly their rugged outlines could be distinguished, yet 
how varied and how delicate were the shades of their colour. 
I had the good fortune to find living here Mr. Richard Cor- 
field, an old schoolfellow and friend, to whose hospitality and 
kindness I was greatly indebted, in having afforded me a most 
pleasant residence during the Beagle’s stay in Chile. The im- 
mediate neighbourhood of Valparaiso is not very productive to 
the naturalist. During the long summer the wind blows steadily 
from the southward, and a little off shore, so that rain never 
falls; during the three winter months, however, it is suffici- 
ently abundant. The vegetation in consequence is very scanty : 
except in some deep valleys, there are no trees, and only a 
little grass and a few low bushes are scattered over the less 
steep parts of the hills. When we reflect, that at the distance of 
350 miles to the south, this side of the Andes is completely 
hidden by one impenetrable forest, the contrast is very remark- 
able. I took several long walks while collecting objects of na- 
tural history. The country is pleasant for exercise. There are 
many very beautiful flowers; and, as in most other dry climates, 
tne plants and shrubs possess strong and peculiar odours—even 
one’s clothes by brushing through them became scented. I did 
not cease from wonder at finding each succeeding day as fine as 
the foregoing. What a difference does climate make in the en- 
joyment of life! How opposite are the sensations when viewing 
black mountains half-enveloped in clouds, and seeing another 
range through the light blue haze of a fine day! The one fora 
time may be very sublime; the other is all gaiety and havpy life. 
