278 CHILOE, [CHAP. XIIL 
November 30th.—Early on Sunday morning we reached Castro, 
the ancient capital of Chiloe, but now a most forlorn and de- 
serted place. The usual quadrangular arrangement of Spanish 
tewns could be traced, but the streets and plaza were coated with 
fine green turf, on which sheep were browsing. The church, 
which stands in the middle, is entirely built of plank, and has a 
picturesque and venerable appearance. The poverty of the 
place may be conceived from the fact, that although containing 
some hundreds of inhabitants, one of our party was unable any- 
where to purchase either a pound of sugar or an ordinary knife. 
No individual possessed either a watch or a clock; and an old 
man, who was supposed to have a good idea of time, was em- 
ployed to strike the church bell by guess. The arrival of our 
boats was a rare event in this quiet retired corner of the world ; 
and nearly all the inhabitants came down to the beach to see us 
pitch our tents. They were very civil, and offered us a house ; 
and one man even sent us a cask of cider as a present. In the 
afternoon we paid our respects to the governor—a quiet old man, 
who, in his appearance and manner of life, was scarcely superior 
to an English cottager. At night heavy rain set in, whith was 
hardly sufficient to drive away from our tents the large circle of 
lockers on. An Indian family, who had come to trade in a 
canoe from Caylen, bivouacked near us. They had no shelter 
during the rain. In the morning I asked a young Indian, who 
was wet to the skin, how he had passed the night. He seemed 
perfectly content, and answered, “‘ Muy bien, sefior.” 
December 1st.—We steered for the island of Lemuy. I was 
anxious to examine a reported coal-mine, which turned out to be 
lignite of little value, in the sandstone (probably of an ancient 
tertiary epoch) of which these islands are composed. When we 
reached Lemuy we had much difficulty in finding any place to 
pitch our tents, for it was spring-tide, and the land was wooded 
down to the water’s edge. Ina short time we were surrounded 
by a large group of the nearly pure Indian inhabitants. They 
were much surprised at our arrival, and said one to the other, 
“ This is the reason we have seen so many parrots lately; the 
cheucau (an odd red-breasted little bird, which inhabits the thick 
forest, and utters very peculiar noises) has not cried ‘ beware’ 
for nothing.” They were soon anxious for barter. Monev was 
