1835.] CHILOE, 293 
When occasionally a long reach of this avenue could be beheld, 
it presented a curious scene of uniformity: the white line of 
logs, narrowing in perspective, became hidden by the gloomy 
forest, or terminated in a zigzag which ascended some steep hill. 
Although the distance from 8. Carlos to Castro is only twelve 
leagues in a straight line, the formation of the road must have 
been a great labour. I was told that several people had formerly 
lost their lives in attempting to cross the forest. The first who 
succeeded was an Indian, who cut his way through the canes in 
eight days, and reached §. Carlos: he was rewarded by the 
Spanish government with a grant of land. During the summer, 
many of the Indians wander about the forests (but chiefly in the 
higher parts, where the woods are not quite so thick), in search 
of the half-wild cattle which live on the leaves of the cane and 
certain trees. It was one of these huntsmen who by chance dis- 
covered, a few years since, an English vessel, which had been 
wrecked on the outer coast. The crew were beginning to fail in 
provisions, and it is not probable that, without the aid of this 
man, they would ever have extricated themselves from these 
scarcely penetrable woods. As it was, one seaman died on the 
march, from fatigue. The Indians in these excursions steer by 
the sun; so that if there is a continuance of cloudy weather, they 
cannot travel. 
The day was beautiful, and the number of trees which were in 
full flower perfumed the air; yet even this could hardly dis- 
sipate the effect of the gloomy dampness of the forest. More- 
over, the many dead trunks that stand like skeletons, never fail 
to give to these primeval woods a character of solemnity, absent 
in those of countries long civilized. Shortly after sunset we bi 
vouacked for the night. Our female companion, who was rather 
good-looking, belonged to one of the most respectable families in 
Castro : she rode, however, astride, and without shoes or stockings. 
I was surprised at the total want of pride shown by her and her 
brother. They brought food with them, but at all our meals sat 
watching Mr. King and myself whilst eating, till we were fairly 
shamed into feeding the whole party. ‘The night was cloudless ; 
and while lying in our beds, we enjoyed the sight (and it isa 
high enjoyment) of the multitude of stars which illumined the 
darkness of the forest. 
