300 VALDIVIA. [cHAP. XIV 
any other tribe which I had before seen. Their expression is 
generally grave, and even austere, and possesses much character : 
this may pass either for honest bluntness or fierce determination. 
The long black hair, the grave and much-lined features, and the 
dark complexion, called to my mind old portraits of James I. 
On the road we met with none of that humble politeness so uni- 
-versal in Chiloe. Some gave their “ mari-mari” (good morning) 
with promptness, but the greater number did not seem inclined 
to offer any salute. This independence of manners is probably a 
consequence of their long wars, and the repeated victories which 
they alone, of all the tribes in America, have gained over the 
Spaniards. 
I spent the evening very pleasantly, talking with the padre. 
He was exceedingly kind and hospitable; and coming from 
Santiago, had contrived to surround himself with some few com- 
forts. Being a man of some little education, he bitterly com- 
plained of the total want of society. With no particular zeal 
for religion, no business or pursuit, how completely must this 
man’s life be wasted! The next day, on our return, we met 
seven very wild-looking Indians, of whom some were caciques 
that had just received from the Chilian government, their yearly 
small stipend for having long remained faithful. They were 
fine-looking men, and they rode one after the other, with most 
gloomy faces. An old cacique, who headed them, had been, I 
suppose, more excessively drunk than the rest, for he seemed 
both extremely grave and very crabbed. Shortly before this, 
two Indians joined us, who were travelling from a distant mission 
to Valdivia concerning some lawsuit. One was a good-humoured 
old man, but from his wrinkled beardless face looked more like 
an old woman thanaman. I frequently presented both of them 
with cigars; and though ready to receive them, and I dare say 
grateful, they would hardly condescend to thank me. A Chilotan 
Indian would have taken off his hat, and given his ‘ Dios le 
pagé!” The travelling was very tedious, both from the bad- 
ness of the roads, and from the number of great fallen trees, 
which it was necessary either to leap over or to avoid by making 
long circuits. We slept on the road, and next morning reached 
Valdivia, whence I proceeded on board. 
A few days afterwards I crossed the bay with a party of 
