1835.} PASSAGE OF THE CORDILLERA. 318 
CHAPTER XV. 
Valparaiso—Portillo pass—Sagacity of mules—Mountaim-torrents—Mines, 
how discovered—Proofs of the gradual elevation of the Cordillera—Effect 
of snow on rocks—Geological structure of the two main ranges, theit 
distinct origin and upheaval—Great subsidence—Red snow—Winds— 
Pinnacles of snow—Dry and clear atmosphere—Electricity—Pampas— 
Zoology of the opposite sides of the Andes—Locusts—Great Bugs— 
Mendoza—Uspallata Pass—Silicified trees buried as they grew—Incas 
Bridge—Badness of the passes exaggerated—Cumbre—Casuchas—Val- 
paraiso, 
PASSAGE OF THE CORDILLERA. 
March Ith, 1835.—We stayed three days at Concepcion, and 
then sailed for Valparaiso. The wind being northerly, we only 
reached the mouth of the harbour of Concepcion before it was 
dark. Being very near the land, and a fog coming on, the 
anchor was dropped. Presently a large American whaler ap- 
peared close alongside of us; and we heard the Yankee swearing 
at his men to keep quiet, whilst he listened for the breakers. 
Captain Fitz Roy hailed him, in a loud clear voice, to anchor 
where he then was. The poor man must have thought the voice 
came from the shore: such a Babel of cries issued at once from 
the ship—every one hallooing out, “ Let go the anchor! veer 
cable! shorten sail!” It was the most laughable thing I ever 
heard. If the ship’s crew had been all captains, and no men, 
there could not have been a greater uproar of orders. We after- 
wards found that the mate stuttered: I suppose all hands were 
assisting him in giving his orders. 
On the 11th we anchored at Valparaiso, and two days after- 
wards I set out to cross the Cordillera. I proceeded to Santiago, 
where Mr. Caldcleugh most kindly assisted me in every possible 
way in making the little preparations which were necessary, In 
this part of Chile there are two passes across the Andes to Men- 
doza: the one most commonly used—namely, that of Aconcagua 
or Uspallata—is situated some way to the north ; the other, called 
