336 USPALLATA PASS. [cHap. Xv. 
mountains, dotted over with the pale evergreen Quillay tree, and 
with the great chandelier-like cactus, are certainly more to be 
admired than the bare eastern valleys; but I cannot quite agree 
with the admiration expressed by some travellers. The extreme 
pleasure, I suspect, is chiefly owing to the prospect of a good fire 
and of a good supper, after escaping from the cold regions above: 
and I am sure I most heartily participated in these feelings. 
8th.—We left the valley of the Aconcagua, by which we had 
descended, and reached in the evening a cottage near the Villa 
de St. Rosa. The fertility of the plain was delightful: the 
autumn being advanced, the leaves of many of the fruit-trees 
were falling; and of the labourers,—some were busy in drying 
figs and peaches on the roofs of their cottages, while others were 
gathering the grapes from the vineyards. It was a pretty scene ; 
but I missed that pensive stillness which makes the autumn in 
England indeed the evening of the year. On the 10th we reached 
Santiago, where I received a very kind and hospitable reception 
from Mr. Caldcleugh. My excursion only cost me twenty-four 
days, and never did I more deeply enjoy an equal space of time. 
A few days afterwards I returned to Mr. Corfield’s house at 
Valparaiso, 
