1835.] COAST-ROAD TO COQUIMBO. 337 
CHAPTER XVI. 
Ccast-road to Coquimbo—Great loads carried by the miners—Coquimbo— 
Earthquake — Step-formed terraces—Absence of recent deposits—Con- 
temporaneousness of the Tertiary formations—Excursion up the valley— 
Road to Guasco—Deserts—Valley of Copiapé—Rain and earthquakes— 
Hydrophobia— The Despoblado— Indian Ruins—Probable change of 
climate—River-bed arched by an earthquake—Cold gales of wind—Noises 
from a hill—Iquique—Salt alluvium—Nitrate of soda—Lima—Unhealthy 
country—Ruins of Callao, overthrown by an earthquake—Recent sub- 
sidence—Elevated shells on San Lorenzo, their decomposition—Plain with 
embedded shells and fragments of pottery—Antiquity of the Indian Race. 
NORTHERN CHILE AND PERU. 
April 27th.—I szEr out on a journey to Coquimbo, and thence 
through Guasco to Copiapéd, where Captain Fitz Roy kindly 
offered to pick me up in the Beagle.’ The distance in a straight 
line along the shore northward is only 420 miles; but my 
mode of travelling made it a very long journey. I bought four 
horses and two mules, the latter carrying the luggage on alter- 
nate days. The six animals together only cost the value of 
twenty-five pounds sterling, and at Copiapé I sold them again 
for twenty-three. We travelled in the same independent mannev 
as before, cooking our own meals, and sleeping in the open air. 
As we rode towards the Vito del Mar, I took a farewell view of 
Valparaiso, and admired its picturesque appearance. For geo- 
logical purposes I made a detour from the high road to the foot 
of the Bell of Quillota. We passed through an alluvial district 
rich in gold, to the neighbourhood of Limache, where we slept. 
Washing for gold supports the inhabitants of numerous hovels, 
scattered along the sides of each little rivulet; but, like all those 
whose gains are uncertain, they are unthrifty in their habits, and 
consequently poor. 
28th.—In the afternoon we arrived at a cottage at the foot of 
the Bell mountain. The inhabitants were freeholders, which is 
not very usual in Chile. They supported themselves on the pro 
