1835.] IQUIQUE.—_SALTPETRE-WORKS, 363 
pounds sterling, was sent to France and England. It is princi- 
pally used as a manure and.in the manufacture of nitric acid: owing 
to its deliquescent property it will not serve for gunpowder. For- 
merly there were two exceedingly rich silver-mines in this neigh- 
_bourhood, but their produce is now very small. 
Our arrival in the offing caused some little apprehension. Peru 
was in a state of anarchy ;,and each party having demanded a 
contribution, the poor town of Iquique was in tribulation, think- 
ing the evil hour was come. The people had also their domestic 
troubles ; a short time before, three French carpenters had broken 
open, during the same night, the two churches, and stolen all the 
plate: one of the robbers, however, subsequently confessed, and 
the plate was recovered. The convicts were sent to Arequipa, 
which, though the capital of this province, is two hundred leagues 
distant ; the government there thought it a pity to punish such 
useful workmen, who could make all sorts of furniture; and 
accordingly liberated them. Things being in this state, the 
churches were again broken open, but this time the plate was not 
recovered. ‘The inhabitants became dreadfully enraged, and de- 
claring that none but heretics would thus “eat God Almighty,” 
proceeded to torture some Englishmen, with the intention of 
afterwards shooting them. At last the authorities interfered, 
and peace was established. 
13th.—In the morning I started for the saltpetre-works, a dis- 
tance of fourteen leagues. Having ascended the steep coast- 
mountains by a zigzag sandy track, we soon came in view of the 
mines of Guantajaya and St. Rosa. These two small villages are 
placed at the very mouths of the mines; and being perched up on 
hills, they had a still more unnatural and desolate appearance 
than the town of Iquique. We did not reach the saltpetre-works 
till after sunset, having ridden all day across an undulating coun- 
try, a complete and utter desert. The road was strewed with the 
bones and dried skins of the many beasts of burden which had 
perished on it from fatigue. Excepting the Vultur aura, which 
preys on the carcasses, I saw neither bird, quadruped, reptile, nor 
insect. On the coast-mountains, at the height of about 2000 
feet, where during this season the clouds generally hang, a very 
few cacti were growing in the clefts of rock ; and the loose sand 
was strewed over with a lichen, which lies on the surface quite 
