1835.) EXCURSION TO WAIMATE. 421 
the old Tahitian chief Utamme. No doubt the extraordinary 
manner in which tattooing is here practised, gives a disagreeable 
expression to their countenances. The complicated but symme- 
trical figures covering the whole face, puzzle and mislead an 
unaccustomed eye: it is moreover probable, that the deep inci- 
sions, by destroying the play of the superficial muscles, give an 
air of rigid inflexibility. But, besides this, there is a twinkling 
in the eye, which cannot indicate any thing but cunning and 
ferocity. Their figures are tall and bulky; but not comparable 
in elegance with those of the working-classes in Tahiti. 
Both their persons and houses are filthily dirty and offensive : 
the idea of washing either their bodies or their clothes never 
seems to enter their heads. I sawa chief, who was wearing a 
shirt black and matted with filth, and when asked how it came 
to be so dirty, he replied, with surprise, ‘“‘ Do not you see it is 
an old one?” Some of the men have shirts; but the common 
dress is one or two large blankets, generally black with dirt, 
which are thrown over their shoulders in a very inconvenient and 
awkward fashion. A few of the principal chiefs have decent suits 
of English clothes ; but these are only worn on great occasions. 
December 23rd.—At a place called Waimate, about fifteen 
miles from the Bay of Islands, and midway between the eastern 
and western coasts, the missionaries have purchased some land 
for agricultural purposes. I had been introduced to the Rev, 
W. Williams, who, upon my expressing a wish, invited me to 
pay him a visit there. Mr. Bushby, the British resident, offered 
to take me in his boat by a creek, where I should see a pretty 
waterfall, and by which means my walk would be shortened. He 
likewise procured for me a guide. Upon asking a neighbouring 
chief to recommend a man, the chief himself offered to go; but 
his ignorance of the value of money was so complete, that at 
first he asked how many pounds I would give him, but after- 
wards was well contented with two dollars. When I showed 
the chief a very small bundie, which I wanted carried, it be- 
came absolutely necessary for him to take a slave. These feel- 
ings of pride are beginning to wear away ; but formerly a leading 
man would sooner have died, than undergone the indignity of 
carrying the smallest burden. My companion was a light active 
man, dressed in a dirty blanket, and with his face completely 
