OEDEE OF PACHYDEEMATA. 177 



The second quality of pork, interlarded, seasoned, and chopped 

 fine, is used in making naveloys. 



The most fleshy of the intestines, pickled and seasoned, when 

 divided into long fillets, and mixed with pieces of lean flesh and 

 little bits of the fat, introduced into portions of the gut, constitute 

 what is called the andouUle (chitterlings). These are generally 

 eaten grilled. They are also sometimes smoked, and cooked in 

 soup. 



Pigs' tongues are also greatly esteemed. 



Fielded porh is prepared by preserving various parts, such as 

 portions of the fillet and brisket, in a stone jar or barrel containing 

 salt and water. 



The mass of fat which covers the neck and chest, melted over a 

 fire, furnishes that grease of the Pig, which is called lard, and 

 which advantageously replaces butter in many culinary prepa- 

 rations. 



Sam (the familiar appellation for the leg and thigh of the 

 Pig, when preserved after a certain manner) plays a prominent 

 part in the alimentation of the public. In France, the best haras 

 are prepared in the departments of the Bas-Rhin, of the Haut- 

 Rhin, of the Meuse, of the Moselle, the Ardennes, the Vosges, 

 and the Basses-Pyrenees. Hams from Mayence, "Westphalia, 

 and Jutland are much esteemed. The best English hams are 

 those of Yorkshire, Hampshire, and Berkshire. The superiority 

 of the Bayonne hams is due to the excellence of the race of Pigs 

 which supply them, and to the good quality of the salt which is 

 extracted from the springs situated at Salies, the chef-lieu of the 

 canton of the Department of the Pyrenees, and with which they 

 are prepared. The excellent hams of Majrence are cured by 

 salting and dipping them in a preservative mixture ; after which 

 they are hung for six weeks in the interior of a chimney, so that 

 they may be thoroughly impregnated by smoke ; ultimately they 

 are placed in layers, in barrels furnished with a chafing dish, in 

 which jrmiper wood is burnt. 



The small Westphalia ham is usually smoked for three weeks 

 over a smouldering fire made of juniper branches. 



A ham fair is held in Paris on Tuesday, Wednesday, and 

 Thursday of the Holy Week. It formerly took place in the square 

 opposite the principal entrance to the Cathedral of Notre-Dame ; 



