SUPPORTS FOR PLANTS, TRAINING, ETC. 53 
hoe-handle, about six feet long, should be prepared for 
the Dahlia; it should be painted, if white, with a dull 
brownish green. No rods or supports should be painted 
a bright green; they will not require painting with any 
color if they have the bark on. Hazel rods, Buckthorn 
trimmings, or any other straight growing stick will an- 
swer for one year. Stout painted wire is more durable, and 
will answer for many years, if carefully preserved. Put 
down Dahlia supports before planting the tubers, as it 
can be done then in a more substantial manner than when 
the plant has grown a foot or two high. It is then all 
ready to tie the plant to as it advances in height. The 
best material for tying, is the bass from the West Indies; 
‘it is the bark of some tree, and is kept by most seedsmen, 
and is much used by nurserymen for budding. This is 
very strong and pliable if wet, and can be split up very 
fine, and looks neat, if all hanging ends be cut off. 
‘When tall plants are in masses, they may be kept in 
shape by supports concealed as much as possible by the 
foliage, using strong brown twine, fastened to these sup- 
ports, to surround the mass, but care must be taken that 
the stake or twine be invisible if possible. Morning 
Glories and many other climbing plants may be trained 
on twine to some object, and will require a little assist- 
ance to give them a start, after which they will take care 
of themselves; or in some corner they present a fine ap- 
pearance when trained to common bean poles. 
Petunias, in a mass, look best when left to themselves, 
as they naturally incline to a spreading position requiring 
only a little clipping when they grow out of shape. A 
single plant will make a handsome pyramid when trained 
to a supporting rod with an occasional trimming and tying. 
A few plants, well trained and supported, produce a 
much finer effect, than a multitude of them when lef te 
take care of themselves. 
