98 BRECK’S NEW BOOK OF FLOWERS. 
The only time to remove them with success, is during 
the time of their dormant state, at which time the offsets 
may be separated, and planted where the cultivator may 
judge best. 
The season of rest, for most bulbs, happens shortly 
after they have done flowering. Tulip and Hyacinth bulbs 
are generally ripe in about one month from the time of 
flowering. As soon as the foliage of the Tulip turns pur- 
ple and begins to dry, the bulbs may be taken up; and, 
with the Hyacinth, before the foliage is fully decayed. 
As a general rule, when the tops have quiet died down, 
the bulbs may be taken up and separated. 
With the exception of Tulips, Hyacinths, Narcissus, 
and some others, most hardy bulbs, as the Lily tribe, 
Crown Imperial, etc., are injured if kept long out of 
ground. It is best to plant offsets of bulbs, of every de- 
scription, immediately, for if kept long out of ground they 
become exhausted and perish. Bulbs that have com- 
menced growing, before planting, are always weakened ; 
yet ignorant purchasers will frequently select such because 
they look more lively. If they have made much growth, 
the bulb will not flower at all. 
Some tuberous roots are classed with bulbous roots. 
Strictly speaking, it is not correct, but for convenience 
sake we shall so consider them. The Dahlia and Peony 
are, properly, tuberous roots. Directions for cultivating 
these will be given when they are described. 
HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS AND BIENNIALS. 
The mode of cultivating this class of plants is perfectly 
easy; three things chiefly have to be attended to. First, 
the manner of propagation. Second, the most suitable 
soil. Third, the requisite temperature. There are five 
methods of propagation practised: by divisions, suckers, 
layers, seeds, and cuttings. 
