O/O PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE OF PRUNING 



to train fruit trees. Paragraphs (273 to 278) are quoted from his 

 work. The arrangement and position of walls will depend on the 

 size and the nature of the surroundings, etc., but they should always 

 be arranged, if possible, in a square, with the principal wall facing 

 south, or as nearly so as practicable. Where it is possible, place the 

 walls so the outside as well as the inside borders may be used for 

 fruit, thus making use of the whole wall space. Bear in mind that 

 upon the north side many useful fruits may be grown. 



The height of the walls should be 8 to 15 feet, according to cir- 

 cumstances. In most cases the south wall may be lower, to admit 

 more sunshine into the garden; and in the case of large gardens, 

 one or more cross walls may also be introduced. They should be 

 built without piers. Architects have generally a great fancy fur 

 piers, and in many instances insist upon having them; but walls can 

 be built without them, and they are always a great difficulty and 

 nuisance to the gardener. They frequently interfere with the ar- 

 rangement of the trees when planting. In training they are a great 

 trouble, and often cause much damage to the trees. Provide a good 

 permanent coping of tiles or stone, projecting at least 6 inches from 

 the face of tfie wall. These should in all cases be provided inde- 

 pendently of any further coping for the protection of the trees at 

 the time of flowering. 



274. Removable glass copings are very useful for peaches, nec- 

 tarines and apricots. These are required for only a few weeks in 

 spring, at the time of blossoming and setting the fruit, and should be 

 removed when no longer required. Fixed glass copings are very 

 objectionable, as they keep off all rain, encourage red spider and 

 other vermin, and necessitate constant syringing. 



In all cases it is a great saving of labor to wire the walls or 

 fences. The vines should be placed in lines not exceeding 9 inches 

 apart and 2 inches from the wall. Galvanized hold-fasts, tighteners 

 and all needful appliances are easily obtainable. 



275. Tying to the wire is much more quickly done than nailing to 

 the wall, and does not afford the same shelter to insect pests, while 

 it preserves the wall from injury due to constant nailing, and allows 

 the wood to ripen more thoroughly and evenly. The branches are 

 also enabled to form fruit spurs and buds all around. Frequently 

 the inside or back blossoms escape injury from frost, which damages 

 the outer ones, and a crop is thereby saved. 



In the case of all fruits, however, and especially that of peaches 

 and nectarines, it is needful to be very careful in tying in order to 

 prevent the branch coming immediately in contact with the gal- 

 vanized wire. Many instances have occurred of disease and decay 

 resulting from this. There is, however, no danger if the precaution 

 is always taken in tying to cross the tie between the branch and the 

 wire, so the branch may be held firmly in position without coming 

 in actual contact with the wire. And the danger may be still further 

 lessened by painting the wires and hold-fasts after fixing. 



