40 



THE CHICK BOOK 



in raising spring hatched cockerels that will weigh nine 

 pounds and over, and pullets that will weigh seven pounds 

 and over by Christmas. 



Coop and Run for Hen With Chicks. 

 I have seen many sketches of coops, runs, etc., and pres- 

 ent herewith one that I liave used for the past ten years with 

 good success. Some of my friends have adopted this style 

 of coop, and one man says of it, "It is the only thing with 

 which I can have any success in the village, as cats are so 



A Prosperous Brood of Prospective Money Makers, 



thick they get all my chicks if they are allowed to run." 

 This coop is proof, against hawks and cr&wS as well, or any- 

 thing that does n'o't' dig. I like the old-fashioned A coop for 

 several reasons, 'f'he chicks can get down near the bottom 

 of the coop under the sides, and if the hen scratches they 

 are out of the way. They are cheap and easy to move, are 

 water-proof and easy to free from vermin. I cut the sides 

 thirty inches long, twenty inches wide, using ten-inch wide 

 boards with d 'batten of tin or wood over the middle joint. 

 Take three','^ieces of board, one by two, one for the ridge 

 pole, and the other two for battens near the bottom. Nail 

 these to the sides, as shown in shaded places in front of 

 coop. Take a piece, one by three, and put across the fronfc 



nve inches from the bottom, as shown in the sketch. Nail 

 a piece, two and one-half inches wide, in the middle, leav- 

 ing a space two and three-quarter inches wide at each sid& 

 Then nail the rest solid. Nail a board of matched stuff 

 lengthwise on the back, or bevel the edges so the water will 

 shed properly if not matched. You can leave a small hole 

 at the top of back for ventilation if necessary. I usually 

 cover the ridge with a strip of tin to make it water-proof. 

 When the chicks get large enough to jump up onto the cross- 

 piece and get out, put a piece 

 of one-inch wire netting across 

 the upper part of the front. 



To make the runs taie a 

 sixteen-foot board ten, inches 

 wide, cut in two for the sides, 

 eight feet long. Then take 

 anotter board and cut two 

 pieces three feelt ten inches 

 long for tb© ends, and two 

 piieces four feet two inches 

 long for the cover and top 

 board. Take four pieces ten 

 iniches long, two by two, for 

 corner-pieces. Nail the three- 

 foot-ten-inch pieces to them, 

 place them 'between tlie sides 

 and nail them securely. Take 

 one piece o€ the four-foot- 

 two-inch, place it on the end 

 of the run, lay the other piece 

 next to it ana nail it securely. 

 Take two straps or T hinges 

 and hang the first board to 

 tlhe one n'ailed and you have 

 the door by which to feed 

 and water. Cover the balance 

 of the top with one-Inch mesh 

 wire netting four feet wide. 

 Saw a h.ole ftor the opening 

 In one end eight inches long 

 and five inches wide from 

 the bottom. Mtove the coop 

 up to it so that the open- 

 ing will correspond with the end of the run. On cold 

 nights or in rainy weather put a board in front of the coop 

 on top of the run. This is necessary during rain stormS, 

 as the rain falling on the boards will spatter into the coop 

 and make it damp unless protected. 



In hot weather I put the coop and run in the 

 shade, and move them every few days onto fresh 

 ground. These measures are not arbitrary, as the runs 

 can be made longer or shorter, or higher, to suit the fancy 

 of the breeder. I am giving you a general idea. The cover 

 and board adjoining make a good shelter for the chicks to 

 feed under when It rains and furnish a shade when the sun 

 shines. MRS. S. B- HURLBUT. 



