JUNE HA TCHED CHICKS. 



Leading Breeders Give Their Experiences With Late Hatched Chicks— Evidence That With Care and Correct Treat- 

 ment Chicks Hatched In June Make Winners In December, January and February. 



[The following short articles ftom experienced and well known breeders will encourage those who., from any cai;se, do not have as many early chicks 

 on hand as they need and instruct beginners in the care and feeding of late hatched chicks. By studying the fnethods advocated^ by the best author- 

 ities the reader can readily determine how to make the most of the natural advantages within his reach and how to avoid the mistakes that spoil the 

 profits. Opinion among these experienced breeders is practically unanimous that food, water, shade and lice are the main considerations, ana that 

 with the exercise of care in raising the birds many a June hatched chick will win fame for its owner at next winter's shows.] 



RAISED UNDER SUITABLE CONDITIONS, JUNE 



HATCHED CHICKS ARE UP TO WEIGHT FOB 



WINTER SHOWS. 



'HIIjB it is true that early chicks do better, still a 

 great many good birds can be, with proper care 

 and feeding, raised from chicks hatched in that 

 month. We have had June Barred Rock pullets 

 laying in January and February, and continue laying until 

 late in the spring before becoming broody. The cull cockerels 

 can be sold early in the fall, when they make excellent fries. 

 The others should be separated, cockerels from pullets, put 

 in light, dry, warm coops, and kept for the spring trade. 

 They must be made to scratch for their grain, and positively 

 must have grit, green food and a dust box to insure steady 

 growth through the winter. 



One of the greatest difficulties in raising June chicks is 

 the extreme heat. Shade and plenty of fresh water are in- 

 dispensable. An orchard or a berry patch makes excellent 

 shade, or rape seed sown early in May makes good shade, 

 and green food, too. Sometimes on the lawn we drive stakes 

 in the ground forming a square, and fasten burlap to them, 

 making a shelter about two feet high, which breaks the 

 sun, but allows a free circulation of air. 



Our chicks are free to roam at all times. We do not 

 think the wet grass, early in the morning, hurts them in 

 the least, but rather believe it toughens them and speeds 

 their growth. 



We feed rolled oats and whole wheat; it makes bone 

 and muscle and they thrive on it. They get but little corn. 

 Feed June chicks sparingly during the hot months of July 

 and August, keep them a little hungry and they will forage 

 better, eat more grass and green stuff, find more bugs and 

 worms, and you won't know what a sick chick looks like. 

 You can force their growth more when the cool nights of 

 September come by giving them all they want to eat for 

 supper of a good mash food, composed principally of bran, 

 shorts and chop feed, with a handful of salt occasionally. 



We use open front, shed roof coops, without any floor, 

 about four by six feet on the ground, which can be easily 

 moved, thus keeping them clean and wholesome. If the 

 chicks want to roost on the ridge, or on a brush heap, or in 

 the trees, we let them; it makes them tough. Keep them as 

 near natural conditions as possible and a great many June 

 chicks will be up to weight for the winter shows and for 

 winter layers. W. S. PEASE. 



CARE," CLEANLINESS AND VARIED FOODS CAUSE 

 CHICKS HATCHED IN JUNE TO WIN IN DE- 

 CEMBER, JANUARY AND FEBRUARY. 



I will give you my views on the raising of June hatched 

 chicks for exhibition purposes. 



Chicks hatched before June 15th can be virtually ma- 

 tured by January Ist following, by close attention to feed- 

 ing, wide range and sanitary, well ventilated cooping. Food 

 for first two weeks should be given every two or three hours, 

 dry mixed cracked grains, hulled oats, wheat, millet and 

 corn. Fresh milk twice daily and pure water and grit at 

 all times. After the second week and up to four weeks of 

 age a little chopped fresh meat daily. When one month old 

 allow free range, shaded. Provide a dusting box made up 

 of equal parts of fine lake sand and road dust, with a little 

 powderedi sulphur added, and place where it will keep dry. 

 This will keep them free from lice. 



Do not crowd the roosting coop. Young chickens must 

 have plenty of room in order to thrive. 



Separate the cockerels from pullets at fourteen weeks. 

 Have your winter quarters ready by October 25th. After 

 this time provide fresh ground bone and vegetables daily in 

 addition to the oats, wheat and corn. Clean, well ventilated 

 houses are particularly essential. I remove the droppings 

 daily. 



Chicks raised in this manner will be ready for the De- 

 cember shows and will be of standard weight. The first 

 prize White Wyandotte Cleveland cockerel, December, 1902, 

 was hatched June 10th. A full brother hatched the same 

 date headed the second prize pen at Pittsburg show in Feb- 

 ruary, 1903. At the Painesville show In January, 1904, the 

 pullets I exhibited in the first prize pen were hatched the 

 first week in June, and all were standard weight or over. 



So do not be discouraged over the late spring and de- 

 layed hatches, but redouble your care and you will be up 

 in front when the winter show season arrives. 



DR. WM. H. HUMISTON. 



JUNE SAID TO BE "ONE OF THE BEST" MONTHS 

 FOR HATCHING WINTER SHOW BIRDS. 



As a matter of fact I have always considered June a 

 splendid month to get out "Ringlet" Barred Rocks and have 

 hatched a great many winning show birds as late as July. 

 Every bird in one of ray New York first prize exhibition pens 

 was hatched in .July. Some of my first prize pullets at New 

 York were hatched August 10th. 



Birds hatched in June are ready to show in January and 



