PLANNING THE GARDEN 187 



rows eighteen inches apart for blanching with boards, while 

 very late celery should stand four feet apart for wintering in 

 the ground. For corn and the squashes the distance will 

 vary with the variety. 



All these plants are hardy except beans, corn, cucumber, 

 eggplant, okra, pepper, tomato, and the squashes. 



For potatoes, see Chapter XXVII, also the planting list. 



If once you have learned all this, you are ready to plan 

 the vegetable garden. What with succession and com- 

 panion cropping, you may vary the plan greatly. In succes- 

 sion cropping you plant the early vegetables in separate 

 rows, and follow them with others as soon as the ground 

 is clear. The plants that follow may be either other short- 

 season crops, or else transplantings of full-season crops. 

 Thus early crops of radish, lettuce, spinach, beets, peas, 

 or dwarf string beans, may be followed by kohl-rabi, tur- 

 nips, endive, tomato, cabbage, cauliflower, or Brussels 

 sprouts. 



In cojnpanion cropping you may plant in the same row 

 long-season and short-season plants, the latter to be out of 

 the way by the time the former need all the space. Thus 

 lettuce, onion sets, or hot-bed onions, may go between 

 the late cabbage or cauliflower or the staked tomatoes. 

 Again, rows of short-season crops may go between rows of 

 long-season crops. Thus radish or beets, or onion sets, 

 or spinach, or lettuce, may be planted midway between rows 

 of late cabbage or cauliflower, and will be picked before the 

 larger and later plants need the room. Or these two methods 

 of companion cropping may be combined in some such way 

 as follows : Plant a row of late cabbages two feet apart, 

 and between them set lettuce. A foot away sow a row of 

 radishes, beets, or spinach. Then, another foot away, set 

 another row of cabbages and lettuce, or perhaps of cauli- 



