PLANNING THE GARDEN 191 



in the case of peas and beans, because the ground will now 

 be too rich for them. Plan accordingly, and where last year's 

 peas and beans have put nitrogen in the soil, try to put this 

 year's leaf plants, such as lettuce, cabbage, and spinach. 



When the plan is finished, mark it clearly with hard pencil, 

 not with ink or soft pencil, for then it will blot or rub if it 

 gets wet when taken to the garden. Then study how much 

 seed you need. So many feet of corn, or beets, or alyssum : 

 this is easy to calculate. Next turn to the table of seed 

 quantities, in the back of this book, and find how many 

 packets or ounces or pints you will need. For most flower 

 gardens, and for a very small vegetable garden, packets are 

 usually enough; but for a large vegetable garden you will 

 need greater amounts of certain seeds, such as beets, peas, 

 and beans. 



The next question is where to buy the seed, which is more 

 important than one is likely to think. For if the seed is not 

 good, and either does poorly or fails entirely, you do not 

 lose it alone : all the work and expense of preparing, plant- 

 ing, and cultivating has gone for little. Therefore make sure 

 to get only the best seed. If you belong to a school or town 

 gardening association, then use its seed. But you may 

 have to shift for yourself. Grocery store seed, such as is 

 displayed in little cases in gayly colored packages, is too often 

 old, or adulterated, or not properly named. Go therefore 

 to a seedsman whose business depends upon the reputation 

 of his seeds; there are such men in the nearest large city. 

 If you do not know the name of one, ask a florist, or write the 

 editor of a farm or garden paper. Get the seedsman's cata- 

 logue, and order by mail. Seeds will come long distances 

 safely, and if sent by mail the seedsman will usually pay 

 postage except on heavy packages of peas, beans, and corn. 

 On these you ought to be willing to pay the cost yourself, 



