XIV CHILOE 315 



in those of countries long civilised. Shortly after sunset wc 

 bivouacked for the night. Our female companion, who was 

 rather good-looking, belonged to one of the most respectable 

 families in Castro : she rode, however, astride, and without 

 shoes or stockings. I was surprised at the total want of pride 

 shown by her and her brother. They brought food with them, 

 but at all our meals sat watching Mr. King and myself whilst 

 eating, till we were fairly shamed into feeding the whole party. 

 The night was cloudless ; and while lying in our beds, wc 

 enjoyed the sight (and it is a high enjoyment) of the multi- 

 tude of stars which illumined the darkness of the forest 



January 22,rd. — We rose early in the morning, and reached 

 the pretty quiet town of Castro by two o'clock. The old 

 governor had died since our last visit, and a Chileno was 

 acting in his place. We had a letter of introduction to Don 

 Pedro, whom we found exceedingly hospitable and kind, and 

 more disinterested than is usual on this side of the continent. 

 The next day Don Pedro procured us fresh horses, and offered 

 to accompany us himself. We proceeded to the south — 

 generally following the coast, and passing through several 

 hamlets, each with its large barn-like chapel built of wood. 

 At Vilipilli, Don Pedro asked the commandant to give us a 

 guide to Cucao. The old gentleman offered to come himself; 

 but for a long time nothing would persuade him that two 

 Englishmen really wished to go to such an out-of-the-way 

 place as Cucao. We were thus accompanied by the two 

 greatest aristocrats in the country, as was plainly to be seen 

 in the manner of all the poorer Indians towards them. At 

 Chonchi we struck across the island, following intricate wind- 

 ing paths, sometimes passing through magnificent forests, and 

 sometimes through pretty cleared spots, abounding with corn 

 and potato crops. This undulating woody country, partially 

 cultivated, reminded me of the wilder parts of England, and 

 therefore had to my eye a most fascinating aspect. At 

 Vilinco, which is situated on the borders of the lake of Cucao, 

 only a few fields were cleared ; and all the inhabitants appeared 

 to be Indians. This lake is twelve miles long, and runs in an 

 east and west direction. From local circumstances, the sea- 

 breeze blows very regularly during the day, and during the 

 night it falls calm : this has given rise to strange exaggerations. 



