XVI IQUIQUESALTPETRE WORKS 387 



it will not serve for gunpowder. Formerly there were two 

 exceedingly rich silver-mines in this neighbourhood, but their 

 produce is now very small. 



Our arrival in the offing caused some little apprehension. 

 Peru was in a state of anarchy ; and each party having 

 demanded a contribution, the poor town of Iquique was in 

 tribulation, thinking the evil hour was come. The people had 

 also their domestic troubles ; a short time before three French 

 carpenters had broken open, during the same night, the two 

 churches, and stolen all the plate : one of the robbers, however, 

 subsequently confessed, and the plate was recovered. The 

 convicts were sent to Arequipa, which, though the capital of 

 this province, is two hundred leagues distant ; the government 

 there thought it a pity to punish such useful workmen who 

 could make all sorts of furniture ; and accordingly liberated 

 them. Things being in this state, the churches were again 

 broken open, but this time the plate was not recovered. The 

 inhabitants became dreadfully enraged, and declaring that none 

 but heretics would thus " eat God Almighty," proceeded to 

 torture some Englishmen, with the intention of afterwards 

 shooting them. At last the authorities interfered, and peace 

 was established. 



I 'i,th. — In the morning I started for the saltpetre works, a 

 distance of fourteen leagues. Having ascended the steep coast- 

 mountains by a zigzag sandy track, we soon came in view of 

 the mines of Guantajaya and St. Rosa. These two small 

 villages are placed at the very mouths of the mines ; and being 

 perched up on hills, they had a still more unnatural and desolate 

 appearance than the town of Iquique. We did not reach the 

 saltpetre works till after sunset, having ridden all day across an 

 undulating country, a complete and utter desert. The road 

 was strewed with the bones and dried skins of the many beasts 

 of burden which had perished on it from fatigue. Excepting 

 the Vultur aura, which preys on the carcasses, I saw neither 

 bird, quadruped, reptile, nor insect. On the coast -mountains, 

 at the height of about 2000 feet, where during this season the 

 clouds generally hang, a very few cacti were growing in the 

 clefts of rock ; and the loose sand was strewed over with a 

 lichen, which lies on the surface quite unattached. This plant 

 belongs to the genus Cladonia, and somewhat resembles the 



