440 TAHITI CHAP. 



the murderous battles of former times, the survivors on the 

 conquered side retired into the mountains, where a handful 

 of men could resist a multitude. Certainly half a dozen men, 

 at the spot where the Tahitian reared the old tree, could easily 

 have repulsed thousands. Secondly, that after the introduction 

 of Christianity, there were wild men who lived in the moun- 

 tains, and whose retreats were unknown to the more civilised 

 inhabitants. 



November 20th. — In the morning we started early, and 

 reached Matavai at noon. On the road we met a large party 

 of noble athletic men, going for wild bananas. I found that 

 the ship, on account of the difficulty in watering, had moved 

 to the harbour of Papawa, to which place I immediately 

 walked. This is a very pretty spot. The cove is surrounded 

 by reefs, and the water as smooth as in a lake. The cultivated 

 ground, with its beautiful productions, interspersed with cottages, 

 comes close down to the water's edge. 



From the varying accounts which I had read before 

 reaching these islands, I was very anxious to form, from my 

 own observation, a judgment of their moral state, — although 

 such judgment would necessarily be very imperfect. First 

 impressions at all times very much depend on one's previously- 

 acquired ideas. My notions were drawn from Ellis's Polynesian 

 Researches — an admirable and most interesting work, but 

 naturally looking at everything under a favourable point of 

 view ; from Beechey's Voyage , and from that of Kotzebue, 

 which is strongly adverse to the whole missionary system. 

 He who compares these three accounts will, I think, form a 

 tolerably accurate conception of the present state of Tahiti. 

 One of my impressions, which I took from the two last 

 authorities, was decidedly incorrect ; viz. that the Tahitians 

 had become a gloomy race, and lived in fear of the missionaries. 

 Of the latter feeling I saw no trace, unless, indeed, fear and 

 respect be confounded under one name. Instead of discontent 

 being a common feeling, it would be difficult in Europe to 

 pick out of a crowd half so many merry and happy faces. 

 The prohibition of the flute and dancing is inveighed against 

 as wrong and foolish ; — the more than presbyterian manner 

 of keeping the Sabbath is looked at in a similar light. On 



