522 ASCENSION 



Approaching close to the brink, where the current seemed to 

 be deflected upwards from the face of the cliff, I stretched out 

 my arm, and immediately felt the full force of the wind ; an 

 invisible barrier, two yards in width, separated perfectly calm 

 air from a strong blast. 



I so much enjoyed my rambles among the rocks and 

 mountains of St. Helena, that I felt almost sorry on the 

 morning of the 1 4th to descend to the town. Before noon I 

 was on board, and the Beagle made sail. 



On the 19th of July we reached Ascension. Those who 

 have beheld a volcanic island, situated under an arid climate, 

 will at once be able to picture to themselves the appearance of 

 Ascension. They will imagine smooth conical hills of a bright 

 red colour, with their summits generally truncated, rising 

 separately out of a level surface of black rugged lava. A 

 principal mound in the centre of the island seems the father of 

 the lesser cones. It is called Green Hill ; its name being taken 

 from the faintest tinge of that colour, which at this time of the 

 year is barely perceptible from the anchorage. To complete 

 the desolate scene, the black rocks on the coast are lashed by 

 a wild and turbulent sea. 



The settlement is near the beach ; it consists of several 

 houses and barracks placed irregularly, but well built of white 

 freestone. The only inhabitants are marines, and some negroes 

 liberated from slave-ships, who are paid and victualled by 

 government. There is not a private person on the island. 

 Many of the marines appeared well contented with their 

 situation ; they think it better to serve their one-and-twenty 

 years on shore, let it be what it may, than in a ship ; in this 

 choice, if I were a marine, I should most heartily agree. 



The next morning I ascended Green Hill, 2840 feet high, 

 and thence walked across the island to the windward point. 

 A good cart-road leads from the coast-settlement to the houses, 

 gardens, and fields, placed near the summit of the central 

 mountain. On the roadside there are milestones, and likewise 

 cisterns, where each thirsty passer-by can drink some good 

 water. Similar care is displayed in each part of the establish- 

 ment, and especially in the management of the springs, so that 

 a single drop of water may not be lost : indeed the whole island 



