THE GRAPE VINE. 75 



but it is a mistake, inasmuch as the buds lower down 

 the vine, where the permanent growths generally start, 

 are never so strong and plump as when stopped shorter. 

 The finest planting vines I ever grew were in 6 and 

 7 inch pots, and stopped at 8 feet. They were ready 

 to burst their pots with finely-ripened fibry roots, 

 and their tops stood stiff and erect like hazel-rods, 

 studded with prominent buds. It would save nursery- 

 men much space and labour if planters would accept 

 smaller vines of a concentrated and well-ripened 

 growth. Much could also be saved in packing and 

 carriage, and the article would be in most instances of a 

 far better character. 



After the growths are thoroughly browned, and there 

 is no danger of the main buds starting, the laterals 

 should be entirely removed ; but do everything to pre- 

 serve the foliage on the main growth intact to the last. 

 Should the foliage suffer from any cause, in that case 

 leave the lateral leaves. Give plenty of air in all 

 stages of their growth, or they will be liable to get 

 crippled from excrescences forming on the under sides 

 of the leaves, an affection which is brought on by a too 

 damp atmosphere with too little air. As the ripening 

 process goes on, expose them to a free circulation of dry 

 warm air. After they have shed their leaves, place 

 them for the winter where neither their stems nor roots 

 are exposed to more than a very few degrees of frost. 

 Care should be taken that the roots are never allowed 

 to become mealy dry. Too much wet must also be 

 avoided. A cool shed where the pots can be plunged 

 in decayed tan or leaves free from worms will winter 

 them very well. 



To grow such vines into strong fruitful vines for 



