THE GRAPE VINE. 87 



being indispensable to the proper maturing of the roots 

 and wood that the foliage remain their natural period 

 on the vines. 



MANAGEMENT OF VINES THE SECOND SEASON. 



Pruning. — ^When the vines have rested about three 

 weeks after they have shed their leaves, pruning should 

 not be delayed any longer. Cut down the permanent 

 vines at each rafter to about 1 foot below the top of the 

 front light or bottom of the rafter. The general practice is 

 to cut them down exactly to the bottom of the rafter ; but 

 as they are to be trained with two fruit-bearing and perma- 

 nent rods, I prefer cutting them lower down, both because 

 the two permanent rods can be more easily trained into 

 their proper place, and because the first few buds formed 

 at the base of long young rods are never so prominent, 

 and do not break and show fruit, nor come away into 

 strong lateral growths, so well as those further up the rod. 

 By cutting them below the angle, these weaker buds 

 are formed where they are not so important for fruit- 

 bearing the following season. Shorten back those that 

 have been grown with a single rod, to bear fruit for a 

 year or two, to about 8 feet. The day after they are cut, 

 dress the wounds over with styptic, to prevent any 

 possibility of their bleeding in spring when the sap be- 

 gins to move. Young strong vines are more apt to bleed 

 than older ones. Wash the wood-work and glass, and 

 otherwise thoroughly clean the house. If there has been 

 any red-spider about the vines the previous year, wash 

 them with a soft brush and soapy water. After they 

 have dried, paint them over with a mixture of two parts 

 flower of sulphur, two parts soot, one part soft soap, and 



