90 FRUIT CULTURE UNDER GLASS. 



should also be watered two or three times in summer iu 

 dry seasons, and a slight mulching applied as directed 

 for the inside border. From the daily inside sprinklings 

 the outside border is more likely to get injuriously dry 

 than the inside one in hot summers. When the ripen- 

 ing process has turned the rods brown and the laterals 

 up to the second joint, remove the third leaf from 

 every lateral. This will encourage still further the 

 plumping up of the main buds at the base of the laterals, 

 and from which the crop is to come next year. In a 

 few weeks after, the second leaf should be removed, thus 

 leaving one on each lateral, which, with all the foliage 

 on the main rod, keep green and healthy as long as pos- 

 sible. Give more air as the ripening of the rods goes on ; 

 at the same time gradually decrease moisture in the air ; 

 and rest not satisfied until the wood is solid and well 

 ripened. If any doubt exist on this point, in dull 

 seasons especially, maintain the fire-heat and a circula- 

 tion of dry warm air till they are brown and hard as a 

 hazel-rod. A large, flabby, and ill-ripened growth will 

 bring nothing but disappointment ; and if this point of 

 culture is not gained, all else will avail little. When 

 perfectly ripened, fire-heat of course should be discon- 

 tinued, and the house be as well aired as fuU ventilation 

 will admit. The temporary vines need not be discussed 

 under this head ; for the management of the third and 

 fruiting year applies to them as well as to permanent 

 vines. SuflSce it to say, that they may be allowed to bear 

 from eight to twelve bunches, according to their strength. 

 I have planted and grown temporary vines over and over 

 again, from which the second year I have taken twelve 

 bunches of grapes. A set of vines planted in 1870 out 

 of 6-inch pots, and treated in all respects as I am direct- 



