THE GRAPE VINE. 9 1 



ing, made eada two hard solid rods the second year of 

 their growth, many of which measured 2f inches in 

 circumference. From the temporary vines I took in 

 most cases twelve bunches averaging 2 lb. each. The 

 temporary vines which furnish the bottom part of the roof 

 should be cut out immediately the crop is cut the second 

 season. Those at the top can be left to bear another 

 season without detriment to the permanent vines. 



MANAGEMENT OF VINES THE THIRD AND EEUITING YEA.R. 



Pruning for the First Crop. — For the iirst crop the 

 vines should be fruited to little more than the extent 

 of one-third the rafter, it being of much importance to 

 get the buds at the bottom of the vine to start strongly 

 and evenly the first year, to secure at once strong fruit- 

 ing spurs and buds aU over the rods. If the rods are 

 left longer than this, especially if they have to be start- 

 ed early, the top buds are apt to break strongly, and 

 those below are less likely to keep anything like pace 

 with them. With this shortening back, and the cut- 

 ting off of the laterals close to the bud on the rods, the 

 pruning is complete for the first fruiting season. 



Time to commence Forcing, &c. — After cleaning and 

 dressing the vines as recommended for the previous 

 season, the whitewashing of the walls and the thorough 

 cleansing of everything connected with the house, the 

 border should be pricked up with a fork, and a 

 top-dressing of about two inches of rotten manure 

 spread all over it. The time to start the vines 

 of course depends on when ripe grapes are rec[uired, 

 and whether the vines are ultimately intended for 

 early forcing. If started last year at the 1st of 



