THE GRAPE VINE. 99 



trained 3 feet apart. If there is room for a more 

 lengthened growth, it should be allowed to those from 

 which the bunches are all taken off. This gives foliage 

 enough to sustain the vines in vigour. Closer stopping 

 has a tendency to weaken the vines in time. Allow 

 the lateral growths which spring from the axils of the 

 leaves of these fruit-bearing shoots to form one leaf, then 

 stop them, and do not allow them to make more growth 

 the whole season. A lesser number of large well-de- 

 veloped leaves is preferable to a greater number in a 

 crowded condition. 



As soon as the shoots can be tied down without fear of 

 their breaking, carefully bring them down till they can 

 be tied to the under sides of the wires. This operation 

 must not be attempted at once. They must be brought 

 down by degrees, beginning with them when their points 

 have nearly touched the glass. Even when they can be 

 tied down safely at one time, they frequently force them- 

 selves off the main stem in the course of a few hours. 

 Shorten the laterals, on the portion of the main stem 

 which is not bearing, to one leaf, when the wood has 

 become brown. 



In thinning off the bunches to the number directed, 

 make a partial thinning when the shoots are tied down, 

 and the final thinning when they are out of bloom, ex- 

 cept in the case of Muscats, the thinning of which should 

 be left till it can be seen which bunches have set their 

 berries most regularly. The thinning of the berries 

 should take place, in the case of Hamburgs and all free- 

 setting sorts, as soon as the berries attain the size of 

 radish-seeds. But with the shy-setting sorts it is best 

 to delay their thinning till they are larger, and it can be 

 seen which are properly fertilised and which are not. 



