THE FIG. 199 



every third or fourth joint. Varieties vary very much 

 in their habit of growth ; some make grosser and longer- 

 jointed wood than others, and require to be cut back 

 after the leaves are shed. Such varieties, as a rule, are 

 not so useful for pot-culture as the more stubby growers, 

 and they seldom yield a satisfactory first crop, but bear 

 chiefly a second crop on the young wood. These 

 varieties are of course to be avoided when early fruit is 

 desired, and it is for early crops that pot-figs are especi- 

 ally valuable. Always in winter pruning, wherever it 

 is necessary, leave untouched all short stubby growths 

 with a cluster of buds near their tops. These are the 

 most fruitful parts of the trees, and are freely produced 

 by well-established trees when bearing heavy crops. 



While the plants are young and being trained, it is 

 often necessary, in order to form the heads into proper 

 symmetry, to have recourse to staking and tying the 

 shoots or branches in their proper places. After the 

 plants get established, and what in pot-culture may be 

 termed fuH grown, neither this nor much pruning is 

 required beyond cutting out old wood to make room for 

 new as occasion may require. 



Soil for figs in pots. — The soil for plants in pots should 

 be richer than has been recommended for borders. 

 Two-thirds of rather a strong loam, with a third of 

 horse-droppings and a little bone-meal, answers well in 

 all pottings after the trees have arrived at a fruit-bear- 

 incf condition. I have sometimes plunged the pots in 

 borders of soil for summer and autumn fruiting, and let 

 them root through into the border, but do not recom- 

 mend the practice. I approve of plunging the pots, 

 but not of letting the roots leave the pots, and it should 

 always be prevented. It induces the active roots ta 



