CJIAPTER II 



UP THE PARAGUAY 



On the afternoon of December 9 we left the attrac- 

 tive and picturesque city of Asuncion to ascend the 

 Paraguay. With generous courtesy the Paraguayan 

 Government had put at my disposal the gunboat-yacht 

 of the President himself, a most comfortable river 

 steamer, and so the opening days of our trip were 

 pleasant in every way. The food was good, our 

 quarters, were clean, we slept well below or on deck, 

 usually without our mosquito-nettings, and in daytime 

 the deck was pleasant under the awnings. It was hot, 

 of course, but we were dressed suitably in our exploring 

 and hunting clothes, and did not mind the heat. The 

 river was low, for there had been dry weather for some 

 weeks — judging from the vague and contradictory 

 information I received there is much elasticity to the 

 terms " wet season " and " dry season " at this part of the 

 Paraguay. Under the brilliant sky we steamed steadily 

 up the mighty river ; the sunset was glorious as we 

 leaned on the port raihng ; and after nightfall the moon, 

 nearly full and hanging high in the heavens, turned the 

 water to shimmering radiance. On the mud-flats and 

 sand-bars, and among the green rushes of the bays and 

 inlets, were stately water-fowl ; crimson flamingoes and 

 rosy spoonbills, dark-coloured ibis, and white storks 



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