46 UP THE PARAGUAY [chap, ii 



a graduate of the University of Pennsylvania. He was 

 able to render into Spanish my ideas — on such subjects 

 as orderly liberty and the far-reaching mischief done by 

 the revolutionary habit — with clearness and vigour, 

 because he thoroughly understood not only how I felt, 

 but also the American way of looking at such things. 

 My hosts were hospitahty itself, and I enjoyed the 

 unexpected greeting. 



We steamed on up the river. Now and then we 

 passed another boat — a steamer, or, to my surprise, 

 perhaps a barkentine or schooner. The Paraguay is 

 a highway of traffic. Once we passed a big beef- 

 canning factory. Ranches stood on either bank a few 

 leagues apart, and we stopped at wood-yards on the 

 west bank. Indians worked around them. At one 

 such yard the Indians were evidently part of the 

 regular force. Their squaws were with them, cooking 

 at queer open-air ovens. One small child had as pets 

 a parrot and a young coati — a kind of long-nosed 

 raccoon. Loading wood, the Indians stood in a line, 

 tossing the logs from one to the other. These Indians 

 wore clothes. 



On this day we got into the tropics. Even in the 

 heat of the day the deck was pleasant under the 

 awnings ; the sun rose and set in crimson splendour ; 

 and the nights, with the moon at the full, were wonder- 

 ful. At night Orion blazed overhead, and the Southern 

 Cross hung in the star- brilliant heavens behind us. But 

 after the moon rose the constellations paled, and clear 

 in her light the tree-clad banks stood on either hand as 

 we steamed steadily against the swirling current of the 

 great river. 



At noon on the 12 th we were at the Brazilian 

 boundary. On this day we here and there came on 



