CHAP. IV] A RODEO 99 



notably tapirs and peccaries, of which the naturalists 

 desired specimens. Dom Joao, our host, and his son 

 accompanied us. Theirs is a noteworthy family. Born 

 in Matto Grosso, in the tropics, our host had the look 

 of a northerner and, although a grandfather, he possessed 

 an abounding vigour and energy such as very few men 

 of any climate or surroundings do possess. AU of his 

 sons are doing well. The son who was with us was a 

 stalwart, powerful man, a pleasant companion, an able 

 public servant, a finished horseman, and a skilled hunter. 

 He carried a sharp spear, not a rifle, for in Matto Grosso 

 it is the custom in hunting the jaguar for riflemen and 

 spearmen to go in at him together when he turns at bay, 

 the spearman holding him off" if the first shot fails to 

 stop him, so that another shot can be put in. Altogether, 

 our host and his son reminded one of the best type of 

 American ranchmen and planters, of those planters and 

 ranchmen who are adepts in bold and manly field sports, 

 who are capital men of business, and who also often 

 supply to the state skilled and faithful public servants. 

 The hospitality the father and son extended to us was 

 patriarchal : neither, for instance, would sit at table with 

 their guests at the beginning of the formal meals ; instead 

 they exercised a close personal supervision over the feast. 

 Our charming hostess, however, sat at the head of the 

 table. 



At six in the morning we started, all of us on fine 

 horses. The day was lowering and overcast. A dozen 

 dogs were with us, but only one or two were worth 

 anything. Three or four ordinary countrymen, the 

 ranch hands, or vaqueiros, accompanied us ; they were 

 mainly of Indian blood, and would have been called 

 peons, or caboclos, in other parts of Brazil, but here 

 were always spoken to and of as " camaradas." They 



