AT TAPIRAPOAN 159 



a nun or waxbill, is about the size of a thrush, greyish 

 in colour, with a waxy red bill. It also burrows in the 

 level soil, the burrow being five feet long ; and 

 over the mouth of the burrow it heaps a pile of sticks 

 and leaves. 



At this camp the heat was great — from 91° to 

 104° F. — and the air very heavy, being saturated 

 with moisture ; and there were many rain-storms. But 

 there were no mosquitoes, and we were very comfortable. 

 Thanks to the neighbourhood of the ranch, we fared 

 sumptuously, with plenty of beef, chickens, and fresh 

 milk. Two of the Brazilian dishes were delicious : 

 canja, a thick soup of chicken and rice, the best soup a 

 hungry man ever tasted ; and beef chopped in rather 

 small pieces and served with a well-flavoured but 

 simple gravy. The mule allotted me as a riding-beast 

 was a powerful animal, with easy gaits. The Brazilian 

 Government had waiting for me a very handsome 

 silver-mounted saddle and bridle ; I was much pleased 

 with both. However, my exceedingly rough and shabby 

 clothing made an incongruous contrast. 



At Tapirapoan we broke up our baggage — as well as 

 our party. We sent forward the Canadian canoe — 

 which, with the motor-engine and some kerosene, went 

 in a cart drawn by six oxen^ — and a hundred sealed tin 

 cases of provisions, each containing rations for a day for 

 six men. They had been put up in New York under 

 the special direction of Fiala, for use when we got 

 where we wished to take good and varied food in small 

 compass. AU the skins, skulls, and alcoholic specimens, 

 and all the baggage not absolutely necessary, were sent 

 back down the Paraguay and to New York, in charge 

 of Harper. The separate baggage-trains, under the 

 charge of Captain Amilcar, were organized to go 



