THE HANDLING OF THE PLANTS 119 
planted, only the upper bud projects above the ground. 
They may be planted erect, as Fig. 122. shows, or somewhat 
slanting. In order that the cutting may reach down to 
moist earth, it is desirable that it should not be less than 6 
in. long; and it is sometimes better if it is 8 to12in. If the 
wood is short-jointed, there may be several 
buds on a cutting of this length; and in order 
to prevent too many shoots from arising from 
these buds the lowermost buds are often cut 
out. Roots will start as readily if the lower 
' buds are removed, since the buds grow into 
shoots and not into roots. 
Cuttings of currants, grapes, gooseberries, 
and the like may be set in rows that are far 
enough apart to admit of easy tillage either 
with horse or hand tools, and the cuttings may 
be placed 3 to 8 in. apart in the row. The 
English varieties of gooseberries, considerably grown in this 
country, do not propagate readily from cuttings. 
After the cuttings have grown one season, the plants are usu- 
ally transplanted and given more room for the second year’s 
growth, after which time they are ready to be set in permanent 
plantations. In some cases, the plants are set at the end of the 
first year; but two-year plants are stronger and usually prefer. 
able. 
123. Carnation 
cutting. 
Cuttings of roots. 
Root-cuttings are used for blackberries, raspberries, and a 
few other things. They are ordinarily made of roots from the 
size of a lead pencil to one’s little finger, and are cut in lengths 
from 3 to 5 in. long. The cuttings are stored the same as 
stem-cuttings and allowed to callous. In the spring they are 
planted in a horizontal or nearly horizontal position in moist 
sandy soil, being entirely covered to a depth of 1 or 2 in. 
